Tash Rabat

Myself, taking it all in, Кошой Коргон. I believe the photo credit goes to Abhi Goyal, a fellow Fulbrighter.

Two weekends ago, I decided to have a little weekend. I have a few American friends in Bishkek studying on Boren scholarships, they wanted to see Song Kul (a really cool lake at about 10,000 feet worthy of its own post) and I wanted to get into the mountains before it got too chilly. I have been to Song Kul before, but it is beautiful and I like sleeping in yurts, so I was very down to go again. One of my Boren friends, Katie, did a wonderful job organizing the trip (we used the Trekking Union in Bishkek, which I am now a member of. I highly recommend especially if you are going to live in Bishkek for any period of time).  This post will roughly reflect the trip. Note: I uploaded over 100 pictures from this trip to Facebook and I thought I was limiting them. The views were that good.

Aisymbat, Моя самая лучшая подруга из Бишкека

I flew up to Bishkek on the Friday after work (I have now flown Air Kyrgyzstan and TezJet as I slowly try to fly all the Kyrgyz air companies) and had a wonderful Friday night in the city reconnecting with some of my local friends. The first cold spell of the city came through so I finally got to see snow in Bishkek, in September.

#teamPatagonia
Naryn Oblast with Boren Fellow, Katie Anderson

My group met at the Trekking Union at 6:45 AM (*insert facepalm emoji*). It was cold and there was still snow around (a theme for the weekend). Lucky, everyone was dressed appropriately and we took off. Like many drives in Kyrgyzstan, drive times are variable. However, Song Kul generally takes 5 to 5 ½ hours from Bishkek. 4 hours on the main road, and then about 1 ½ hours on a side road through a valley and up a pass. We were making good time (only a couple stops for pictures at some truly stunning vistas) and we were about 30 minutes up the valley road when ominously, a marshutka passed us going the other way and immediately stopped to talk with our driver. Our driver was a Russian without much Kyrgyz, however my friend Aisymbat, from the Thai food post this summer, was on the trip and took over as communicator extraordinaire. In all, the driver reported that the pass was blocked by snow and that we should try again tomorrow. This was only supposed to be a one night stay so this wasn’t a great option. After much discussion, we decided to try and go to Tash Rabat in Southern Kyrgyzstan, another 3 hours south near the Chinese border and ironically, closer to my home in Osh than Bishkek.

The beautiful of Кошой Коргон.
Photo: Anna Wolfs

This was a wonderful choice. We continued on our way, which included one pass over 3,000 meters and dropped into Naryn Oblast (Oblast – administrative districts in many ex- Soviet countries, bigger than an American county, smaller than most states). Our first stop was at Кошой Коргон (Koshoy Korgon/Qoshoy Qorgon). These amazing castle ruins are located near the village of Kara-Suu, and are dated sometime between the 10th and 13th century. Legend connects it to the Kyrgyz’s hero: Manas. I was absolutely blown away, not just by the ruins, but by their location. Surrounded by mountains on three sides, it was very surreal. I could have sat in peace there for days. Part of what makes the valley amazing is the sheer diversity of color of the different hills and mountains. Everywhere I turned, was something new and stunning. I strongly recommend visiting this location, even more so with a snowy mountain backdrop.

Our yurt camp in Tash Rabat
Photo: Anna Wolfs

Afterwards, we continued onto our destination main, Таш-Рабат (Tash Rabat). Historians disagree about its dating (anything from 10th to 15th century), but all agree that at one point it served as an important Silk Road outpost at around 10,500 ft . This no-frills stone building was very impressive. I cannot imagine how people were able to build it that high up. It must have been a monumental feat of strength and labor.  The location was amazingly gorgeous as well. We stayed in a yurt camp near the structure, which included a wonderful, traditional Kyrgyz high mountain dinner. The food was excellent and endless and served as a wonderful opportunity for fellowship and general story telling. The night was frigid, and quite below zero, but the yurt provided a sufficient amount of warmth and comfort to rectify the situation. In the morning, most of the group went on a 4 hour hike or rode on horseback, however due to my aversion to horses (with these stout, but small Kyrgyz horses, it is mutal) and having a bum ankle, I decide to delegate the role of camera man to myself.  I then wandered down to the river to reread the short story collection Hurramabad by Andrei Volos, which is a wonderful collection of short fictional stories that are based on reality inspired by the experience of the Russian community in Tajikistan in the 90s. It was a wonderful setting for such an activity.

Tash Rabat

Finally, we returned to Bishkek via Naryn, where we enjoyed a solid lunch. In Bishkek, I gave in and tried Chili Peppers, a Tex-Mex joint run by an American ex-pat that appears to be a godsend for those missing variety in their spices (note: they were out of avocado which *insert 2nd facepalm emoji). On Monday, I ate lunch and quickly saw one more friend, before returning to Osh.

Tash Rabat 2
Inside Tash Rabat
My Sunday Morning reading view at Tash Rabat
Riding Horses, Katie and Ellen Carpenter
Me near Tash Rabat
Photo: Anna Wolfs
Some of the crew at Кошой Коргон
Includes: Katie, Anna, AJ, myself, Matt, Rachel, Ellen, Abhi, and Rebecca
Walls are not forever

Golf In Kyrgyzstan

Me putting on the 4th green. Photo taken by John Flott, 7.22.2017

The obvious choice for my first post would be to write about Issyk Kul. However, I need practice blogging (Feedback Welcome) and it’s Sunday of The Open Championship so: Golf in Kyrgyzstan.

Yesterday, two of my buddies (John and Blake) and I decided we had to check out the only golf course in Kyrgyzstan: Кленовый лист гольф клуб (Maple Leaf Golf Club). It is owned by a cordial Canadian named Ed, who was nice enough to introduce himself to us during our pre-round meal and give us the story of the club. To paraphrase: In the 90s, Ed was working long term in country and the idea was basically born out of being told it was impossible one joyful 4th of July night at a bar in Bishkek with some American expats. He took this to heart and has been running the course from that point on.

John and Blake walking the first fairway. 7.22.2017

The course itself is 9 holes (and a driving range), however each hole has 2 tee boxes to give it an 18 hole feel. Considering it is the middle of summer in Bishkek (can hit 40 C (104 F) without anyone thinking it’s odd, dry, and sunny) and I assume the access to golf course equipment is limited and expensive, the course was in good shape thanks to the fact they are watering the course at all times. All lies in the fairway were good and the rough close to the fairways was generally decent. The greens could use some work, but again the limitations make this more than understandable. Flat out, I have played on courses that were less maintained and in much worse condition in the States many times. The course is located in the foothills providing fresh air and wonderful views of the mountains.. We only played 9 holes due to the heat, but had a wonderful time. If you love golf, I certainly would recommend.

The view from the 7th fairway. The entire southern view of the course is mountains.

What really makes this place is the atmosphere and friendly service. Yes, it is an expat spot where you hear a lot of first-language English speakers, but it is clearly just a spot kept going by a small, loyal community, of expats and locals, who love the game. There were also plenty of people who seemed to come out just to eat and hang out, which speaks to the quality of both the atmosphere and food.

Looking at the clubhouse from the first tee.

The meal – Best Hamburger that I have had in Bishkek. It was cooked on an actual gas grill. They had a stocked bar with one beer on tap, but lots of options in bottles.. It appears they had other food options, including local favorites like shashlik. While I didn’t use the service, they advertise that they will bring beer out to you on the course if you call in. Finally, the patio is very comfortable and relaxing.

*Note: Plenty of posts won’t read like a travel blog, but if I am writing about about something I experienced, I see no reason not to pass on some details of the business.

Information:

Name: Кленовый лист гольф клуб
Location: Maybe 15-20 kilometers Southeast of Bishkek
Website: https://www.facebook.com/mapleleafgolfcoursekg
Phone: +996 559 777 766
Transportation: It seems many players drive but we took a taxi, 350-400 soms ($5-6). From an app, it does look like a marshrutka might get you close, but it would be an awfully long ride.

Cost:

9/18 holes – 1200/2000 som ($17/29)
Rentals – I think 400-500 som ($5-7) – My clubs were in very good condition.  
Balls (Used) – 50 som a piece (a little under $1) – Note: Balls are valuable, if you hit it out of the course (easy to do on 1, 2, and 7), locals may try and sell your ball back to you. Some enterprising youngsters were doing this for 20 som when we were playing.
Caddie – 350 som ($5) – Caddies appeared to be popular, however I did not get one myself.
Range: I didn’t check the price, but it looks very nice.
Note: Everyone walks, it appears the club has one cart which is used by the owner.

(Note: This is an expensive outing in Bishkek, however it would be cheap golf in the States)

Restaurant:

Prices: Average
Service: Good
Food: Excellent

Recommendation: Absolutely. Food is very good, views are good, and you get to play golf.