Hong Kong

Victoria Peak (3.22.2019)

Note: I have been bad about posting. Ow well, it is my blog. I have some stuff written up from the last months, it just needs to be touched up.

But first, Hong Kong. Last month, I took a much-needed vacation. I spent a few days with friends in Taipei and then spent nearly two weeks on a whirlwind tour of Thailand. Everything was pretty swell of course, however I finished the trip with two days in Hong Kong and I feel like writing about it.

Both Taipei and Hong Kong were on my itinerary because of my favorite, exhausting travel trick, extended layovers. The main goal of this vacation was the sun and beaches of Thailand, but when traveling that far, you often have layovers in new places. With a little bit of effort, and help from budget sites like Momondo and Kiwi, you can often get two or three days at a new location for almost nothing. I see this as essentially free travel as I would have to pay the cost even if I skipped it.

Dim Sum #1

I had enjoyed the trip so far, but I had a distinct sense of excitement for Hong Kong. I had always heard good things from all friends who had been and of course, it is a city laden with history and culture and FOOD. I was interested to compare the experience with Beijing and Taipei, as all three are Chinese cities with distinctly different geopolitical pasts and presents. And because I am as #basic as they come, I was very hyped to see Victoria Peak and not only for the Insta. I took an evening flight in from Chiang Mai on Hong Kong Express (easily the nicest budget airline I have ever flown), and as we approached, the lights from the city inspired that sense of awe that normally is reserved for landing at La Guardia at night while coming up the East River. It is incredibly cheesy I know, but I was struck with this feeling of gratitude for the opportunity to experience it. I even told my random seatmate that one of my desires for life was that I hope I still get that same child-like giddy feeling of wonder whenever I visit a new place, no matter what age I am. 

Thoughts on Hong Kong’s Airport: Customs are very easy as an American (I think it is something like 90 days visa free) and while their airport is a long way from the main touristy parts of the city, it was super easy to navigate even at the middle of night. First, I highly suggest snagging a SIM card and Octopus card (Hong Kong’s all-everything reloadable public transit card that also works to buy things at stores like 7-11s). Next, taxis from the airport are very expensive. Enter my new favorite bus system anywhere in the world. Hong Kong has huge, comfortable buses with Wi-Fi that run to and from the airport from all over the city, 24-7. They cost ~$5. Both times, it took between 45 minutes to an hour to get from the airport to Hong Kong Island. Highly Recommended.

My goal when having limited time in a city while knowing you cannot see and do everything is to prioritize one or two big things a day and let the rest of it come as it will. For the first day, I set my sites on Victoria Peak and taking a boat across the harbor to check out the skyline. Decked out in Michigan gear to celebrate our early morning NCAA tourney victory over mighty Montana (Traveling in a big, international city during the first weekend of the NCAA tournament is hilarious. The uni polos are out and you are reminded just how deep people roll with their alma mater. And yes, I realize how weird the rest of the world finds Americans’ obsession with this), I set out early to combat what was sure to be long lines for the Peak. I considered going at night for the absurd light-show views, however I had friends to go out with that night and it was supposed to rain the next day, so I decided now was the time. The quicker option to get to the peak is probably to take public transport up the backside of the mountain; however, I was a tourist and hence opted to experience the tram ride up. I recommend it at least once as I found it kind of thrilling. The Peak itself did not disappoint, it was magnificent up there. The Hong Kong skyline is kind of mid blowing to be honest. I did not have perfect weather, but it was good enough. Basically, there is a reason every tourist goes and it is because it is worth it. Pro tip: I decided to crush a beer and pizza on a restaurant’s balcony afterward. Sure, it was overpriced, but I basically got a private view of the city. For me, it was totally worth it.

Views

Next, I headed to the Tsim Sha Tsui neighborhood to meet with a fellow traveler from Couchsurfing Hangouts. (Not sure if I mentioned this before but Couchsurfing Hangouts is easily my favorite solo travel application. I have met so many fascinating people all over the world using it. Basically, in major travel areas, you are never alone, and if you do not vibe with the people or group, it is easy enough to excuse yourself.) Today, I was meeting up on the waterfront with Dina, a Kazakh girl in her 20s, who turned out to be cool af. We hit it off as we had similar travel goals and ended up spending the next day and a half exploring the city together. We wandered around the waterfront and eventually took a boat across the harbor for the #views. Cheap and highly recommended. That night, we met up with two of my American friends who were having a weekend in Hong Kong. We all went out in Lan Kwai Fong and it was as fun as advertised. It is a lit district near Central with different bars, restaurants, and clubs all in a row. I admit, it is key to have a normal, big city night when you live on a remote island full time. I highly suggest it.

Looking at Hong Kong Island over the waterfront

The following day, Dina and I settled on two goals: walk the Mid-Levels escalator system in the Central shopping district and to see if we could find one of Hong Kong’s beaches. Mid-Levels is a fun way to see the city as it is this long continuous elevated escalator system that takes maybe 20-30 minutes to complete in total. It is another thing that I am told is cooler at night with the lights, but was still neat during the day. I have never seen something quite like it. In the afternoon, I mapped out a route to the beaches on the south side of Hong Kong Island (only a 15-20 minute bus ride from the Causeway Bay neighborhood) and hence I spent the last afternoon of my vacation chilling in a bougie little beach bar and restaurant on Repulse Bay Beach. Honestly, it was a perfect way to end my trip.

Mid-Levels (3.23.2019)
Video Credit: Дина Тазабекова

Overall

Hong Kong was awesome and I have to go back again some time. It was probably my favorite place on a trip full of amazing places. One thing of note, the city is not cheap and space is super limited. I decided to stay in a hostel (it was very nice for a hostel) for the cost savings (still was not particularly cheap) even though my body has basically decided it can no longer sleep in beds that are maybe 175 cm long. I think this was a mistake and I think I may finally be too old for hostels because at this point, I barely sleep and my legs spend the day cramping from having to sleep like a pretzel. I stayed in the Wan Chai neighborhood on Hong Kong Island. I do suggest it as it is centrally located for getting all over the city. Furthermore, it has many chill little restaurants and bars of its own that I barely got to explore due to time limitations. I strongly recommend not skipping out on the beaches. They were a pleasant break from the hustle and bustle of the city. Finally, the legacy of Hong Kong’s Imperial British past are everywhere and obvious.

My Couchsurfing Hangout friend, Dina, and I suggest checking out Repulse Bay Beach

Food

DIM SUM! My god, it is just amazing, I think I honestly had Dim Sum for three meals in two days. Good, cheap Dim Sum places are all over and are even open for breakfast. Everything I tried was amazing (Dumplings, Rolls, Buns, Stuffed peppers, etc.). I suggest just going with others and ordering a bunch of things and seeing what you like. Honestly, if I had a dim sum place of similar quality in Yuzhno, I would probably eat there two to three times a week. It was that good.

MOAR DIM SUM

11 Months Later … Yuzhno-Sakhalinsk (Южно-Сахалинск)

Cathedral of the Nativity, Yuzhno-Sakhalinsk
(Кафедральный собор Рождества Христова)

I have obviously neglected this blog for a long time. Life got in the way, and I got out of the habit. My goal is to start posting again somewhat regularly, and, who knows, I may even get a guest post from some fellow travelers for my blog. As far as a life update, while I still have some old stuff I want to post about Kyrgyzstan from my Fulbright days, I have accepted an ex-pat posting in Yuzhno-Sakhalinsk, Russia, a small city in Far East Russia located north of Japan. It is actually located on a large, mostly mountainous island between the Japanese Sea and the Sea of Okhotsk. The Okhotsk side continues into the Pacific Ocean.

Fireworks from my friend’s apartment celebrating Yuzhno’s birthday

I have been here for just over three weeks now and am starting to get a feel for the place. Unsurprisingly, there are some cool sites, statues, and the like. Chekhov is a huge deal here because he spent a period of time on the island and hence there are a bunch of monuments and various buildings named after him. Furthermore, there is a clear influence from the 50 years of Japanese rule of the southern half of the island, including my city.

View from Gorny Vozdukh

My favorite feature is the ski hill (Горный воздух – Mountain Air) that literally is part of the town. Obviously, no snow right now, but you can still take the tram up for some absolutely beautiful views. I am pretty fired up for winter, as there appear to be some awesome lines available for ripping. I am going back home for a wedding in a couple weeks and will be bringing my skis back with me.

Korean Fried Chicken from Хангук Гван

The food has been fine so far. I have found some cool restaurants that may eventually get their own post (Georgian, Indian, and Korean Fried Chicken!!!) and they have places that make an honest to god American style burger and pepperoni pizza. Finally, there are a lot of little joints that sell their own beer. Some of it is very good; some of it is interesting.

Sea of Okhotsk, Плаж “Солнечный” (Sunny Beach)

While I have been working hard during the week, the weekends have been fun so far. Yuzhno has a fairly large film festival that lasts between two weekends. The highlights for me were watching the band “Несчастный случай(roughly translates to Accident/Misadventure etc.), whom I am told are moderately famous, and watching the 2018 Palme d’Or winner, Shoplifters, a wonderful, yet melancholy Japanese film (with Russian subtitles). The city also celebrated their birthday with a weekend long street festival (solid, very similar to festivals in the US). Furthermore, I took a trip to the beaches near Okhotskoye (Охотское) on the Sea of Okhotsk (no clue where the sea ends and the Pacific begins to be honest). The sea was beautiful, as were the beaches on the large freshwater lakes nearby. It featured a sunset to die for and my friend brought his golden retriever. Finally, I have found American ex-pats who like college football, which means unlike last year, I am not alone in watching Ann Arbor from afar. Bless up. Go Blue.

Sunset over Озеро Хволисекое (Lake Khvolisekoye)

Tash Rabat

Myself, taking it all in, Кошой Коргон. I believe the photo credit goes to Abhi Goyal, a fellow Fulbrighter.

Two weekends ago, I decided to have a little weekend. I have a few American friends in Bishkek studying on Boren scholarships, they wanted to see Song Kul (a really cool lake at about 10,000 feet worthy of its own post) and I wanted to get into the mountains before it got too chilly. I have been to Song Kul before, but it is beautiful and I like sleeping in yurts, so I was very down to go again. One of my Boren friends, Katie, did a wonderful job organizing the trip (we used the Trekking Union in Bishkek, which I am now a member of. I highly recommend especially if you are going to live in Bishkek for any period of time).  This post will roughly reflect the trip. Note: I uploaded over 100 pictures from this trip to Facebook and I thought I was limiting them. The views were that good.

Aisymbat, Моя самая лучшая подруга из Бишкека

I flew up to Bishkek on the Friday after work (I have now flown Air Kyrgyzstan and TezJet as I slowly try to fly all the Kyrgyz air companies) and had a wonderful Friday night in the city reconnecting with some of my local friends. The first cold spell of the city came through so I finally got to see snow in Bishkek, in September.

#teamPatagonia
Naryn Oblast with Boren Fellow, Katie Anderson

My group met at the Trekking Union at 6:45 AM (*insert facepalm emoji*). It was cold and there was still snow around (a theme for the weekend). Lucky, everyone was dressed appropriately and we took off. Like many drives in Kyrgyzstan, drive times are variable. However, Song Kul generally takes 5 to 5 ½ hours from Bishkek. 4 hours on the main road, and then about 1 ½ hours on a side road through a valley and up a pass. We were making good time (only a couple stops for pictures at some truly stunning vistas) and we were about 30 minutes up the valley road when ominously, a marshutka passed us going the other way and immediately stopped to talk with our driver. Our driver was a Russian without much Kyrgyz, however my friend Aisymbat, from the Thai food post this summer, was on the trip and took over as communicator extraordinaire. In all, the driver reported that the pass was blocked by snow and that we should try again tomorrow. This was only supposed to be a one night stay so this wasn’t a great option. After much discussion, we decided to try and go to Tash Rabat in Southern Kyrgyzstan, another 3 hours south near the Chinese border and ironically, closer to my home in Osh than Bishkek.

The beautiful of Кошой Коргон.
Photo: Anna Wolfs

This was a wonderful choice. We continued on our way, which included one pass over 3,000 meters and dropped into Naryn Oblast (Oblast – administrative districts in many ex- Soviet countries, bigger than an American county, smaller than most states). Our first stop was at Кошой Коргон (Koshoy Korgon/Qoshoy Qorgon). These amazing castle ruins are located near the village of Kara-Suu, and are dated sometime between the 10th and 13th century. Legend connects it to the Kyrgyz’s hero: Manas. I was absolutely blown away, not just by the ruins, but by their location. Surrounded by mountains on three sides, it was very surreal. I could have sat in peace there for days. Part of what makes the valley amazing is the sheer diversity of color of the different hills and mountains. Everywhere I turned, was something new and stunning. I strongly recommend visiting this location, even more so with a snowy mountain backdrop.

Our yurt camp in Tash Rabat
Photo: Anna Wolfs

Afterwards, we continued onto our destination main, Таш-Рабат (Tash Rabat). Historians disagree about its dating (anything from 10th to 15th century), but all agree that at one point it served as an important Silk Road outpost at around 10,500 ft . This no-frills stone building was very impressive. I cannot imagine how people were able to build it that high up. It must have been a monumental feat of strength and labor.  The location was amazingly gorgeous as well. We stayed in a yurt camp near the structure, which included a wonderful, traditional Kyrgyz high mountain dinner. The food was excellent and endless and served as a wonderful opportunity for fellowship and general story telling. The night was frigid, and quite below zero, but the yurt provided a sufficient amount of warmth and comfort to rectify the situation. In the morning, most of the group went on a 4 hour hike or rode on horseback, however due to my aversion to horses (with these stout, but small Kyrgyz horses, it is mutal) and having a bum ankle, I decide to delegate the role of camera man to myself.  I then wandered down to the river to reread the short story collection Hurramabad by Andrei Volos, which is a wonderful collection of short fictional stories that are based on reality inspired by the experience of the Russian community in Tajikistan in the 90s. It was a wonderful setting for such an activity.

Tash Rabat

Finally, we returned to Bishkek via Naryn, where we enjoyed a solid lunch. In Bishkek, I gave in and tried Chili Peppers, a Tex-Mex joint run by an American ex-pat that appears to be a godsend for those missing variety in their spices (note: they were out of avocado which *insert 2nd facepalm emoji). On Monday, I ate lunch and quickly saw one more friend, before returning to Osh.

Tash Rabat 2

Inside Tash Rabat

My Sunday Morning reading view at Tash Rabat

Riding Horses, Katie and Ellen Carpenter

Me near Tash Rabat
Photo: Anna Wolfs

Some of the crew at Кошой Коргон
Includes: Katie, Anna, AJ, myself, Matt, Rachel, Ellen, Abhi, and Rebecca

Walls are not forever